Aleksandre Kvaratskhelia poses for a photo at the bar in his restaurant in Shekou. Photos by Zhang Yu

Alex (R) poses with his wife (2nd right) and friends on MADLOBA’s opening day Nov. 8.

Zhang Yu

JeniZhang13@163.com

WHEN you stroll along the bustling streets of Sea World in Shekou, Shenzhen, you might stumble upon MADLOBA, a distinctive restaurant whose name means “thank you” in Georgian. This unique eatery was founded by Aleksandre Kvaratskhelia, a native of Tbilisi, Georgia’s capital, who has been living in Shenzhen for over a decade.

Starting and running a business is far from easy. Kvaratskhelia’s entrepreneurial journey in Shenzhen is one of perseverance, adaptability, and a deep passion for Georgian cuisine and culture.

Navigating various obstacles and setbacks, the Georgian — who goes by Alex — has successfully opened two restaurants in Shenzhen, including his latest one, MADLOBA, which opened its doors this month.

Unforeseen twist of fate

Before coming to Shenzhen, Alex was a circus performer and manager who traversed the vast landscapes of China — from the spicy streets of Chengdu to the icy beauty of Shenyang, Dalian, and Anshan. A highlight of his career was his tenure at Chimelong, a leading Chinese theme park company in Guangzhou, but his heart yearned for more.

Driven by a deep-rooted passion for his country’s 8,000-year-old winemaking history, Alex and a friend embarked on a new adventure in the wine business. With Georgia’s rich viticulture in his blood, he sought to share it with the world.

In 2019, Alex opened a small bar that sold beer, wine, and a handful of dishes in Shenzhen, but the business was cut short by the COVID-19 pandemic. After six months, he opened a second bar, only to face another harsh blow from the pandemic.

Undeterred by these initial failures, Alex persevered. With each closure, he learned, adapted, and rose again. “I stood up and just started again, and now I have two restaurants,” he said.

According to Alex, the inspiration to open a restaurant in Shenzhen came from a friend’s persistent encouragement. Alex initially hesitated, but eventually decided to give it a try. The decision paid off, as both Chinese and international patrons warmly embraced the unique flavors of Georgian cuisine.

Unique flavors of home

Alex believes that his restaurants stands out in Shenzhen’s diverse culinary scene. From imported beverages, wine, and seasonings to the traditional Georgian decor, every element is carefully curated to provide an authentic experience.

“When I don’t have seasonings, I just fly to Georgia, buy a lot of seasonings, and come back. This is the most important and what makes Georgian food taste like Georgian food,” Alex said.

The restaurant is reminiscent of Georgia, decorated with traditional items and artifacts. “For example, the arch is Georgian style. The table cloth is traditional Georgian cloth. We go as close as we possibly can,” he added.

Its atmosphere is lively, inviting patrons to eat, drink, and celebrate in the true spirit of Georgian hospitality. “In Georgia, we like to eat, dance, sing a little bit, and say the toast. In our restaurant, if we are saying the toast and there is someone who doesn’t know how to say the toast, I can come and help,” Alex said.

Adapting the menu to cater to Chinese taste preferences was a significant challenge. According to Alex, he had to reduce the salt content in his dishes, which was no easy task considering the importance of salt in Georgian cuisine. He also had to produce cheese without salt, a laborious process.

Finding staff familiar with Georgian cuisine was also not easy, and the unique pronunciation of dishes added another layer of complexity. Alex took it upon himself to train his team.

Alex also had to taste a lot of foods to ensure the authenticity of flavors. “Because I have been in China for 17 years, I also didn’t remember the taste of some specific foods. So I needed to go back to Georgia. To remember the taste, I always eat, eat, and eat,” Alex said with a laugh.

Despite the challenges, Alex is proud of his accomplishments. He takes pride in hearing patrons say Madloba, “thank you” in Georgian, when they leave his restaurant.

City of opportunities

Alex’s first impression of Shenzhen was one of convenience and cleanliness. According to him, the city’s vibrancy and the support of its people have been instrumental to his success. “I can see the city is always alive. The city actually gives me a lot of opportunities to open restaurants despite my initial failures. Shenzhen never stops surprising me,” he said.

Alex’s long-term goal is to expand his restaurant business to other major cities in China, including Beijing, Shanghai, Chengdu, Hong Kong, and Macao. His short-term goals are to make his current restaurant run smoothly and possibly open another one in Luohu District, Shenzhen.